China (including Tibet)
WESTERN CHINA – Across the Roof of the World
A yak herder in the Everest Region of Tibet (image by Inger Vandyke)
Although modernised with access to solar panels, insulated tents and motorcycles, the traditional Tibetan nomad dress is still very beautiful (image by Inger Vandyke)
Tholing's old courtyards (image by Inger Vandyke)
Tashilunpho Monastery in Shigatse (image by Inger Vandyke)
Clouds swirling around Shisha Pangma (image by Inger Vandyke)
A Tibetan nomad with his baby goat (image by Inger Vandyke)
A pilgrim spinning prayer wheels (image by Inger Vandyke)
Pilgrims arrive at the Jokhang in Lhasa (image by Inger Vandyke)
Traditional Tajik musicians in the Tashkurgan region of western China
Practicing slow shutter photos of the traffic driving past the Potala in the evening (image by Inger Vandyke)
Playing the wild horse game of Buzkashi in the Palmirs of Western China
The Palace Complex at Guge Kingdom (image by Inger Vandyke)
A beautiful nomadic Tibetan girl (image by Inger Vandyke)
The Palace Complex at Guge Kingdom (image by Inger Vandyke)
The Palace Complex at Guge Kingdom (image by Inger Vandyke)
A smiling pilgrim spinning a prayer wheel and carrying study books (image by Inger Vandyke)
Street scene in old Kashgar
The Rooftop of the Jokhang in Lhasa (image by Inger Vandyke)
Wall of a thousand buddhas in Lhasa (image by Inger Vandyke)
A Tibetan nomad holding a baby goat that was too small to walk on its own (image by Inger Vandyke)
A mystical shrouded view of Shisha Pangma (image by Inger Vandyke)
Monks at Ganden Monastery (image by Inger Vandyke)
The chortens outside Tholing (image by Inger Vandyke)
Offerings inside the Monastery at Tholing (image by Inger Vandyke)
The intricate murals of the monastery in Tholing (image by Inger Vandyke)
A nomadic Tibetan woman whose facial lines tell so many stories (image by Inger Vandyke)
The monk debate at Sera Monastery in Lhasa (image by Inger Vandyke)
Tashilunpho Monastery in Shigatse (image by Inger Vandyke)
Shipton's Arch
Tibetan matriarch (image by Inger Vandyke)
Nomadic Tajiks in the Tashkurgan region of western China
A monk inside the Jokhang Image taken with strict permission of the government (image by Inger Vandyke)
Chinese buddhist offering at Tsada (image by Inger Vandyke)
A mani stone wall in the Kyunlung Valley (image by Inger Vandyke)
The ancient murals of Tholing date back to the 14th century (image by Inger Vandyke)
Candle lit mural of Tholing (image by Inger Vandyke)
The Palace Complex at Guge Kingdom (image by Inger Vandyke)
The Palace Complex at Guge Kingdom (image by Inger Vandyke)
Kyunlung Valley in Western Tibet (image by Inger Vandyke)
Kyunlung Valley in Western Tibet, tracing the headwaters of the famous Sutlej River (image by Inger Vandyke)
The Palace Complex at Guge Kingdom (image by Inger Vandyke)
Offerings at the ancient shorten of Tsada (image by Inger Vandyke)
Nuns in Sakya (image by Inger Vandyke)
A beautiful elderly Muya tribal lady walking the kora around the Jokhang in Lhasa (image by Inger Vandyke)
If there is one building that says "Tibet" without any words, it is the incredible Potala Palace (image by Inger Vandyke)
Tibetan Motorcycle Diaries. Nomads on the move (image by Inger Vandyke)
Inside the ancient monastery of Tholing (image by Inger Vandyke)
The Palace Complex at Guge Kingdom (image by Inger Vandyke)
Tashilunpho Monastery in Shigatse (image by Inger Vandyke)
Old Monk at the Sera Monastery (image by Inger Vandyke)
Remote village near Lao Tingri on the Tibetan Plateau (image by Inger Vandyke)
Tajik traditional dress
Gurugyem (or Gurigang) Bon Buddhist Monastery in the Kyunlung Valley of Western Tibet (image by Inger Vandyke)
Tashilunpho Monastery in Shigatse (image by Inger Vandyke)
Inside the prayer hall of the Jokhang. Image taken with strict permission of the government (image by Inger Vandyke)
Remote Tibet is sprinkled with the ruins of civilisations past (image by Inger Vandyke)
The Palace Complex at Guge Kingdom (image by Inger Vandyke)
The spectacular 'clay forests' of Tsada in western Tibet (image by Inger Vandyke)
Wakhi nomad woman
A pilgrim walks the Gyantse Kumbum (image by Inger Vandyke)
The Palace Complex at Guge Kingdom (image by Inger Vandyke)
The Palace Complex at Guge Kingdom (image by Inger Vandyke)
Kashgar Old Town architecture
Desert plants in Tsaparang (image by Inger Vandyke)
Prayer flags adorn the spiritual entrance to the realm of Mount Kailash (image by Inger Vandyke)
Entrance detail of the Potala (image by Inger Vandyke)
The remarkable labyrinth of Piyang Caves in remote western China
Late afternoon at the Potala in Lhasa (image by Inger Vandyke)
Monks at Ganden Monastery (image by Inger Vandyke)
Lost shoes on the edge of a pristine Tibetan Plateau lake (image by Inger Vandyke)
Inside the monastery of Tholing while it was under renovation (image by Inger Vandyke)
Street view of the Century Old Tea House, one of the key locations for filming "The Kite Runner"
Tibetan nomad child with, oddly, a Spongebob Squarepants toy (image by Inger Vandyke)
Nomadic Tibetan women can be strikingly beautiful (image by Inger Vandyke)
The Monk Debate at Sera Monastery(image by Inger Vandyke)
The ancient Chorten of Tsada (image by Inger Vandyke)
The rooftop chorten of Tholing (image by Inger Vandyke)
Gyantse Kumbum (image by Inger Vandyke)
Interior of the monastery in Tholing (image by Inger Vandyke)
A Tibetan nomad girl standing by the motorcycle of her father. Although nomadic Tibetans have access to modern items, many young children still have ruddy coloured cheeks indicating the harshness of the environments in which they live (image by Inger Vandyke)
The remarkable eroded cliffs of Tsaparang (image by Inger Vandyke)
Deserted Fortress at Gyantse (image by Inger Vandyke)
The iconic Mount Kailash (image by Inger Vandyke)
Ruined statue from the time when Guge Kingdom was sporadically raided by invaders from Ladakh (image by Inger Vandyke)
Sunset at Chiu Gompa Monastery, Lake Manasarovar, Tibet (image by Inger Vandyke)
Bulungkol White Sand Lake
Inside the Palace Complex at Guge (image by Inger Vandyke)
The monk debate at Sera Monastery (image by Inger Vandyke)
Boxes holding yak butter candlesticks inside Tholing (image by Inger Vandyke)
An emerald lake adorns the Tsada Geological Park in western Tibet (image by Inger Vandyke)
Mount Kailash is almost constantly crowned by snow, even at the height of summer (image by Inger Vandyke)
Hermitage on the Kora at Ganden Monastery (image by Inger Vandyke)
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Tuesday 26th September –
Saturday 21st October 2028 Leaders: Inger Vandyke and Mark Beaman |
26 Days | Group Size Limit 9 |
WESTERN CHINA – ACROSS THE ROOF OF THE WORLD PHOTOGRAPHY EXPEDITION
Spannning the roof of the Himalayas the vast Chinese regions of Xinjiang, Xizang and Ngari represent the last remaining Shangri La, a high mountainous heaven which, for the most part, has remained largely unseen by western travellers.
In 2013, Wild Images Director Inger Vandyke led a groundbreaking exploratory expedition to remote western Tibet, where she explored the lost kingdom of Guge, its satellite monastic complex of Tholing, the clay forests of Tsada and the headwaters of Asia’s Sutlej River. The permit to run the expedition took three years to negotiate and the small group of participants who joined her still talk about as one of the greatest trips of their lives.
In 2028 Wild Images will return to remote western China on the 15th anniversary of her original expedition.
This expansive visual odyssey will visit Lhasa, Mount Everest, Mount Kailash, Guge Kingdom, remote Changtang and finally the famous Silk Route trading city of Kashgar in Xinjiang, before travelling to the Dawakun desert and finally to Tashkurgan in the eastern part of the Wakhan Corridor that is home to the Wakhi and Tajik people of the Palmirs.
Lhasa
Lying at almost 12,000ft, the bustling modern city of Lhasa sits at a higher elevation above sea level than any other city on earth. A lot has changed in the past few decades in Lhasa but a few things remain constant. It is still one of the most vibrant people watching cities on earth as Tibetan people arrive from every corner of the region to circumambulate and pray at ancient temples. Scratch below the surface of modern paved roads and you can still find tiny backstreet markets, tea houses, places of worship and green parks where people gather to dance and chat.
It is here that the magnificent Potala, a building that speaks Tibet without even saying a word, looks out over the city like a quiet sentinel.
We will spend our first days here to acclimatise to the altitude after our flight from Chengdu.
Shigatse
From Lhasa we will travel west via the stunning emerald coloured lake of Yamdrok Tso and the ancient town of Gyantse to Shigatse, the second largest city in Tibet and home to the Tashilumpho Monastery which was the former seat of the Panchen Lama.
Everest
To visit Mount Everest from the Chinese side is to see one of the world’s greatest wonders. Completely devoid of the crowds and rubbish that litter the southern side of the world’s tallest mountain, to sit at the Chinese Everest Base camp is to look directly out at the famous North Col. We will explore the walkable sections of the trek to Everest, visiting the memorial site for famed British mountaineers George Mallory and Sandy Irvine who undertook an ill-fated ascent of Mount Everest in 1921.
Paiko Tso and Saga
From Everest we will drive overland past another beautiful Tibetan Plateau lake, Paiko Tso. If the mountain gods smile at us that day we may catch glimpses of the jagged Himalayan peak of Shishapangma on this crossing. Our end point will be the lovely small town of Saga, a charismatic sanctuary in the middle of a very barren landscape.
Darchen
Fromo Saga we will travel another beautiful expanse of Tibetan landscapes via the Mayum La Pass, Gongzhucuo Lake and the meandering headwaters of the Brahmaputra River to Darchen which serves as the start and end point for pilgrims trekking around the base of Mount Kailash. Visible from every angle, the fabled Mount Kailash is considered one of the most majestic mountains on earth. For Tibetan people it is the axis of their universe and we will spend time here visiting markets and also photographing the pilgrims as they arrive back off the mountain.
Manasarovar
Nearby is the magnificent Lake Manasarovar. On a clear, still morning, it is possible to photograph Kailash reflecting in the waters of the lake. Manasarovar is the highest freshwater lake in the world and is also the holiest water body for Tibetan people. We will spend time here visiting some of the five Buddhist monasteries around the lake and since this is a region that attracts nomadic Tibetans, if there are families in the area we will go and visit.
The Clay Forests of Tsada
As the expedition travels westwards, the landscapes morph from barren Tibetan Plateau landscapes and glacier fed rivers into the spectacular clay forests of Tsada. Here the eroded landscapes stretch to the horizon, with beautiful walls clay cliffs only separated by valleys that have been sculpted by centuries of winds.
Guge Kingdom
Tsada is the dramatic entry point to the ancient ruins of Guge Kingdom. Once an important trading point, Guge was established in the 10th Century. Its two ancient capitals, Tsaparang and Tholing will be the highlights of our visit here. Tsaparang crowns a clay hill and now lies in ruins after a succession of raids from Ladakhis over the border in India. The ruined monastic complex of Tholing features some of the finest Tibetan artwork in the region.
Kyunglung
Deep within this regions is the headwaters of the Sutlej River. We will be exploring ancient limestone formations, hot springs and cave dwellings including Bon Buddhist monasteries rarely visited by outsiders.
Tibetan Changtang
After the expedition leaves the areas of the Kyunlung and Guge, we will travel deep into the gazetted nature reserve of the Changtang in western China. Here we will be looking for encampments of nomadic Changpa people, whose daily lives play out alongside wildlife like Kiangs (wild horses), wolves, Tibetan Foxes and a host of high altitude bird species.. The Tibetan Changtang covers an area around the size of Spain and its vast grasslands are necklaced by snow-capped peaks. It truly is a remarkable high point of the expedition.
From Bange we will return to Lhasa via the spectacular lake Nam Tso.
Kashgar
For over 2000 years the historical city of Kashgar sat at the crossroads of trade between China, the Middle East and Europe. Perched at the western edge of the wild Taklamakan desert, today Kashgar is an important cultural and economic centre that crowns the province of Xinjiang.
Our base for the final leg of the expedition we will explore the ancient streets of Kashgar’s old town to soak in the well preserved architecture and charisma of this vibrant city.
Dawakun Desert
At the Dawakun Desert we will dip our toes into the vast dunescapes of the Taklamakan, exploring the scenic lakes, ancient poplar forests, cultural monuments and culture of the area’s Uighur and Tajik communities for a day.
Shipton’s Arch
We will visit the famous Shipton’s Arch, from Kashgar. Once reputed to be the tallest rock arch in the world, Shipton’s Arch is one of the most striking geographical features of western China.
Tashkurgan – The Eastern Heart of the Palmirs
From Kashgar we will drive out to Tashkurgan, a little-known region of western China that is home to a large community of tribal Tajik people. Located in the eastern part of the Palmir Plateau and sandwiched between the mountain of the Kunlun, Karakoram, Hindukush and Tian Shan, Tashkurgan is also close to the borders of China with Pakistan, Afghanistan and Tajikistan.
During our time in this fantastic, remote and beautiful region we will be exploring villages and nomadic encampments of Wakhi and Tajik people, both of whom differ greatly from Chinese people in appearance. They are  Caucasian people with light skin. Many have green or blue eyes and fair hair. They speak a Persian (Iranian) language which is part of the Indo-European language group.
After two full days of exploring this fascinating world, we will return to Kashgar to celebrate the end of the expedition.
IMPORTANT
We will make every effort to run the expedition over our planned itinerary, however, we need to be flexible in order to accommodate changes in permissions or local events that we may wish to visit while we are travelling.
The start and end dates of the expedition are fixed. We can arrange hotel stays in Chengdu and Kashgar at the start and end of the expedition.
Accommodation & Road Transport
The expedition will stay in comfortable guest houses and tourist class hotels throughout. Some remote regions may only offer basic guest house accommodation.
In the Tibetan section of the expedition, transport will be with modern 4×4 vehicles with a maximum of 3 guests per vehicle. In Xinjiang, transport will be by minibus.
Walking
There are no long walks on the expedition but it is important to note that much of the route is at high altitude. On average the altitudes we will be travelling in range from 4200m (13,800ft) to 5400m (17,800ft).
Climate
Generally days will be cool, sunny and dry. At night temperatures on the Tibetan Plateau can plummet to freezing or below zero.
Photographic Equipment
For most photography of the people of the expedition, a travel lens of around 24-105mm on a full frame DSLR or mirrorless body will be essential. Sometimes a 70-200mm (on a full frame) will be useful if we encounter any events. A wide angle lens of around 16mm or smaller will be perfect for the spectacular scenery of this expedition.
If you prefer to photograph people from a distance, then please consider bringing a larger zoom or telephoto lens. The focus of the expedition is people and landscapes, however you may wish to carry a smaller zoom lens like a 100-400mm for any wildlife we encounter.
If you bring a good quality bridge camera instead of a DSLR or mirrorless it will be best if it has an optical zoom of 18-20x or more, combined with a reasonable wide-angle at the other end of the zoom range.
If you have a phone or tablet that can be used for photography, you may find these quite useful around people.
Similarly if you have a Polaroid camera like the Leica Sofort or an Instax Mini, these are wonderful to have on hand when you spend time with tribal people. If you decide to bring one of these, please bring lots of film with you as the photographs you produce will be quite popular!
Be sure to bring plenty of spare battery power. On a number of nights there will be no access to power.
If you would like to talk over suitable equipment, please contact our office. We will be happy to advise.
Photographic Highlights
- A chance to visit parts of China rarely seen by outsiders
- Walk the old town of Kashi, famous for its importance in the days of the Silk Route
- Explore the ancient ruins of Guge Kingdom, buried deep in the stunning eroded landscapes of Tsaparang
- Photograph the spectacular Clay Forests of Tsada
- Visit the ancient and beautiful architecture of the Tholing Monastery complex
- Journey down the Kyunglung Valley visiting the ancient Bon Buddhist monastery of Gurugyem (Gurigang)
- Explore the mesmerising dunescapes of the Dawakun Desert at the edge of the mighty Taklamakan
- Photograph the iconic Potala Palace, surely one of the greatest architectural wonders of the world
- Visit remote Tibetan nomads in the Chinese Changthang
- Photograph the stunning and almost mystical Mount Kailash
- A visual odyssey of stunning mountains, high altitude lakes and Tibetan Plateau landscapes
- Explore nomadic camps of Wakhi and Tajik people in the Palmir region near Tashkurgan
- See the historical and geographically famous Shipton's Arch
OUTLINE ITINERARY
- Day 1: Arrive in Chengdu and overnight
- Day 2: Fly from Chengdu to Lhasa and gentle acclimatisation to high altitude
- Day 3: Full day sightseeing in Lhasa including the Potala, Jokhang and Norbulingka Summer Palace
- Day 4: Drive from Lhasa to Changthang via Nam Tso lake
- Day 5: Drive across the Changtang to Bange
- Day 6: Drive across the Changtang to Gaize
- Day 7: Drive to Gaer via Geiji to Tsada
- Day 8: Full day of exploring the Kyunlung Valley, Garuda Caves and hot springs
- Day 9: Full day of sightseeing in Tsada including Tholing Monastery
- Day 10: Full day visiting the ruins of Guge Kingdom
- Day 11: Drive from Tsada to Manasarovar via the headwaters of the Brahmaputra and the Clay Forests
- Day 12: Full day of visiting the monasteries at the edge of Lake Manasarovar and Tibetan nomads if they are in the area
- Day 13: Drive from Manasarovar to Darchen
- Day 14: Full day of visiting the old market of Darchen and the Kailash pilgrims
- Day 15: Drive from Darchen to Saga
- Day 16: Overland drive to Mount Everest from Saga via the southern edge of the Tibetan Plateau, visiting Paiko Tso Lake and hopefully seeing Mount Shishapangma (weather permitting)
- Day 17: Full day of exploring the Chinese Base Camp of Mount Everest
- Day 18: Depart for Shigatse
- Day 19: Depart for Lhasa via the ancient town of Gyantse and the emerald lake of Yamdrok Tso
- Day 20: Fly from Lhasa to Kashgar
- Day 21: Full day at Dawakun Desert
- Day 22: Half day visit to Shipton's Arch before half a day exploring the old town of Kashgar
- Day 23: Drive from Kashgar to Tashkurgan
- Day 24: Full day exploring nomadic Wakhi and Tajik communities
- Day 25: Full day exploring nomadic Wakhi and Tajik communities
- Day 26: Return to Kashgar where the expedition will end
To see a larger map, click on the square-like ‘enlarge’ icon in the upper right of the map box.
To see (or hide) the ‘map legend’, click on the icon with an arrow in the upper left of the map box.
To change to a satellite view, which is great for seeing the physical terrain (and for seeing really fine details by repetitive use of the + button), click on the square ‘map view’ icon in the lower left corner of the ‘map legend’.
PRICE INFORMATION
Wild Images Inclusions: Our tour prices include surface transportation, accommodations, meals and entrance fees.
Our tour prices also include all tips for local guides, drivers and accommodation/restaurant staff.
We also include the following flights in our tour prices:
Chengdu-Lhasa
Lhasa-Kashgar
Deposit: 20% of the total tour price. Our office will let you know what deposit amount is due, in order to confirm your booking, following receipt of your online booking form.
TO BOOK THIS TOUR: Click here (you will need the tour dates)
2028: provisionally £11540, $15600, €13180, AUD23550. Chengdu/Kashgar.
Single Supplement: 2028: £1140, $1550, €1300, AUD2340.
The single supplement will not apply if you indicate on booking that you prefer to share a room and there is a room-mate of the same sex available.
This tour is priced in US Dollars. Amounts shown in other currencies are indicative.
Air Travel To & From The Tour:Â Our in-house IATA ticket agency will be pleased to arrange your air travel on request, or you may arrange this yourself if you prefer.
WESTERN CHINA – ACROSS THE ROOF OF THE WORLD EXPEDITION: DETAILED ITINERARY
China: Day 1
Our Western China expedition will start with a welcome dinner in the busy metropolis of Chengdu.
China: Day 2
Today we will fly from Chengdu to the ancient capital of Tibet, Lhasa. Here we will spend the rest of the day moving slowly to acclimatise to the altitude that we will be travelling in for most of the expedition. Depending on the timing of the flight we may do some sightseeing around the Jokhang, Tibet’s most holy temple.
China: Day 3
We have a full day of exploring the myriad of holy sites in the centre of Lhasa today including a visit to the world famous Potala Palace, the summer palace of the Dalai Lama (Norbulingka), the Jokhang and wall of a Thousand Buddhas. This easy paced day will introduce us to Tibetan culture and beliefs while we join pilgrims on their kora prayer circuits, visit local markets and drink tea in local cafes.
China: Day 4
Fro Lhasa we will depart for far western Tibet and the remote Changthang area that lies near the border of India and China. This is a wild nature reserve that is mostly occupied by nomadic Tibetan people.
En-route we will visit the spectacular, high-altitude lake of Nam Tso. Situated at 4718m (15180ft) above sea level, Nam Tso is the highest saltwater lake on earth.
The thrilling drive from it, westwards to Bange features rolling snow capped mountains and wandering Tibetan nomads. Up until 2018, when Wild Images last visited Nam Tso, you could stay there at basic guest houses near the lake shore. These have now all been removed, restoring this incredible lake, with its glass-clear waters, to nature and the nomads.
From Nam Tso we will arrive in Bange for an overnight stay before our further exploration of the Changthang area.
China: Days 5 & 6
Over two days we will cross the magnificent and remote expanses of the Changtang, near the border of China and India. The Changtang is a high altitude plateau in western and northern Tibet extending into southeastern Ladakh, with vast highlands and giant lakes. From eastern Ladakh the Changtang stretches approximately 1600 kilometres east into Tibet, as far as the province of Qinghai and this mesmerising high-altitude region is the home of the Changpa nomads.
Most of Changtang Plateau is now a protected nature reserves consisting of the Changtang Nature Reserve, the second largest nature reserve in the world.
The altitude of the sanctuary varies and its topography features deep gorges and vast plateaus. There are around eleven lakes and ten marshes in the Changtang Sanctuary which is effectively split into two by the majestic Indus River.
In recent years the Changtang National Nature Reserve has become a paradise for many wild animals, including wild yak, Tibetan antelope and Tibetan gazelles. Recently scientists have estimated there to be more than 1000 species of wildlife inhabiting the area. We will stop at two large lakes, Kanglung Tso and Seling Tso, the latter being the large reserve for Black-naped Cranes on earth.
The people of Changtang are nomadic pastoralisits, known as Changpa. Unlike many other nomadic groups, the Changpa are not under pressure from settled farmers as the vast majority of land they inhabit is too inhospitable for farming.
During our two day traverse of this region we will be spotting wildlife and visiting remote camps of nomadic Changpa people.
China: Day 7
Leaving Changthang we will head south through Rutog County via the remote town of Gaer.
In 1985, rock paintings were found at several sites in Rutog County, the first time such finds had been made in Tibet. Located in around a dozen sites within Rutog, including Risum Rimodong and Lorinaka, these mixed rock art sites of paintings and engravings are not only large in size and great in number, they are also of high artistic and historical value.
They cover a wide range of contents, including hunting, sacrificial rites, riding, domestic animal herding, and farming, as well as the sun and moon, mountains, cattle, horses, sheep, donkeys, antelopes, houses, and people.
The most impressive one features four extravagantly antlered deer racing across the rock and looking back at three leopards in hot pursuit. Also depicted are eagles, yaks, camels, goats, tigers wild boars and human figures.
China: Day 8
Today we will travel out of town to visit the large ancient cave systems of Piyang and Dungkar (or Dongga).
The caves at Dongga and Piyang lie close to two villages of the same names. They represent the largest Buddhist cave sites discovered in Tibet so far. The murals inside are concentrated in three caves on the mountainside and are well preserved. The formation and age of these caves is not recorded in many Tibetan historical, religious and cultural archives. Therefore it is a cultural mystery that has yet to be solved. Archaeological studies of these caves have shown evidence that the paintings here are perhaps a thousand years old. The frescoes in the grottoes have a long history and were painted with special mineral pigments which last forever without fading. The main themes of the murals are Buddha statues, Bodhisattva statues, Buddhist stories, teaching diagrams, as well as various decorative patterns and esoteric mandalas.
After we finish exploring these arid and little-visited sites we will drive to Tholing.
As we approach the fabled Guge Kingdom the landscapes will morph into an otherworldly expanse of wind and snow eroded canyons. The so called ‘clay forests of Tsada’ stretch towards the horizon like a gigantic, natural sculpture park. Imagine lines of clay hills, separated by eroded valleys, hidden monasteries, streams and oases and this is Tsada, one of the geological wonders of China.
We will plunge into the town of the same name on a winding, spectacular road giving us the feeling we are entering into another realm.
China: Day 9
Continuing our exploration of this incredible landscape, we will explore more of Guge and make a visit to the ancient monastery of Tholing. Established in 997 AD by Yeshe-Ö, the second King of the Guge Kingdom. In Tibetan language ‘Tholing’ means “hovering in the sky forever” and is reflected by the location of the monastery at an elevation of 3800m (12,400 ft). The complex includes three temples, the Yeshe-O Temple, the Lhakhang Karpo and the Dukhang. There are many ancient, precious, and well-preserved frescoes in the same intricate style that adorns many temples in neighbouring Ladakh. A visit to this ancient monastery, the oldest in Ngari Prefecture is to step into an era that is lost in time. It is both historically interesting and very photogenic!
China: Day 10
Today we will spend a whole day exploring the ancient ruins of Guge Kingdom. More than 1,000 years ago, a powerful kingdom with a splendid civilization was born here. But after more than 700 years of rule, the kingdom was destroyed overnight by internal disorder and invaders from the outside. What are left are the ruins of the capital of the Guge Kingdom.The ruins lie at a hilltop near a river, more than 300 meters high and covering 180,000 square meters. Houses, cave dwellings, monasteries, stupas, blockhouses, defense works and tunnels are distributed on the hill and surrounding area. Palaces sat on the summit while monasteries on mountainsides, and cave dwellings were located for common people at the foot of the hills. The kingdom was enclosed in tunnels and walls with fortifications. Some structures have survived and remain in good condition in this untraversed region though many of them were reduced into dust. Guge Kingdom is now famous for its murals, sculptures and stone inscriptions, which are attached with those surviving structures. Among them, murals in the White Palace, Red Palace, Yamantaka Chapel, Tara Chapel and Mandala Chapel are preserved in good condition.
Guge has a very significant position in the history of economic and cultural development of Tibet. Many significant Buddhist doctrines of ancient India were passed on to hinterland Tibet via Guge. It was also one of the important commercial ports linking ancient Tibet with the outside world.
China: Day 11
Leaving Tholing, we will begin our journey east in Tibet. Our drive will take us alongside the headwaters of the Brahmaputra River. Here we will begin to see the ruins of ancient monasteries and watch towers that sit like sentinels across this incredible landscape. Many of these structures were ruined by raiders coming over the border from Ladakh over ten centuries ago. It is here we may start to see wildlife including Kiang (wild horses), Bearded Vultures, Bar-headed Geese and even migratory cranes stopping over in high altitude pools to drink and graze.
The vast rolling grasslands of this area are only interrupted by the occasional sand dune, lake and of course, the river.
By the end of the day, the fabled peak of Mount Kailash should be in view if the weather is clear. Our overnight stay will be at Lake Manasarovar.
From Darchen we will travel to the shores of Lake Manasarovar, one of the holiest lakes for both Buddhists and Hindus. For Buddhists, Manasarovar represents the father of the world. For Hindus it is believed to be the place of above of Shiva.
On a clear, still morning, it is magical to see the pyramidal summit of Mount Kailash reflected in the lake’s waters so we will spend time here to photograph the lake, its five Buddhist temples and any nomad camps we may encounter.
Manasarovar is one of the resting places of Mahatma Gandhi. In 1948 some of his ashes were spread here. Visiting this truly beautiful place, you will get a feeling for its religious importance as you immerse yourself in its mesmerising landscapes.
China: Day 12
Today we will spend a full day taking photos around Manasarovar.
China: Day 13
Travelling from Manasarovar we will drive overland to Darchen, the main town that forms the start and end point to the circular trek around the base of Mount Kailash, one of the most prominent acts of faith for Tibetan Buddhists. While the total trek around the mountain is 53km, we will be opting to stay at Darchen to photograph people going to and from the mountain.
China: Day 14
A full day in Darchen visiting the market in the old town and the trek start and end points to photograph pilgrims. The circuit (kora) of Mount Kailash is one of the most important pilgrimages in Asia. It’s been a religious sanctuary since pre-Buddhist times, and a trek here wonderfully integrates the spiritual, cultural and physical dimensions of any trip to Tibet, which explains its growing attraction. There’s some gorgeous mountain scenery along the trek but perhaps more rewarding is the chance to see and meet pilgrims. Tibetans travel on foot, singing or intoning prayers, while Hindus ride on horseback, with yak teams carrying their supplies. It’s a real treat during the main pilgrim season from June to September to catch sight of this Asian-styled wild west scene.
China: Day 15
Today will be an adventurous overland drive to Everest Base Camp. We will be up to catch sunrise over Mount Kailash before we pack up and leave for the highest mountain on earth. During our drive we will traverse a southern section of the Tibetan Plateau where, if the weather blesses us again, we may see good views of the mythical Himalayan mountain of Shisha Pangma. Just 60km to the north is Paiko Tso, a large lake that is surrounded by mountains on three sides. During the time of the expedition we may see a number of migratory birds at the lake, as the landscapes surrounding it turn autumnal. It is here that we may also meet our first Tibetan nomads.
At the end of the day we will reach Rongbuk, the base camp of Everest’s north face.
China: Day 16
Mount Everest, or Chomolungma as the Tibetans call it, is truly one of the most incredible places you will go in your life. Seeing it from the Chinese side requires a lot less physical effort than the trekking you do to see it in neighbouring Nepal. During the day we have here we will visit the base camp site and also the memoral to George Mallory and Sandy Irvine, whose ill-fated attempt to climb Everest from the North Col for the first time failed in 1924. The altitude of Everest Base Camp is high – almost 5400m (17700ft), but to stand at it and realise the summit of Everest is still three kilometres in the clouds above your head is a life-changing experience. We will be photographing the mountain at both sunrise and sunset when we have the best chance to get clear views of the summit in perfect light.
China: Day 17
After leaving the nature reserve of Everest (Mount Chomolungma) our journey today will take us through the small Tibetan towns of Tingri and Lhatse and Tingri. It is here that the scenery will change dramatically from the snow capped peaks of the world’s highest mountains to the vast Tibetan Plateau. We will be searching for some of the Himalaya’s treasured wildlife here including Blue Sheep, Ibex and Himalayan Griffons. If we are blessed with clear skies we will also make a stop at the Gawu La, which will give us our final sights of Everest.
At the end of the day we will reach Shigatse, Tibet’s second largest city, where we will stay overnight.
China: Day 18
From Shigatse we will drive north towards Lhasa, stopping at the ancient town of Gyantse. Sitting at the base of the imposing Gyantse Dzong, or Fort, Gyantse dates back to the 9th century when it was established as a southern protecting town of Lhasa. The old town is home to the beautiful Kumbum Stupa with its terraced prayer balconies and traditional homes lining the streets that radiate out from the temple.
China: Day 19
On the road between Gyantse and Lake Yamdrok Tso we will make a brief stop to view the terminus of the Karola Glacier, one of top three continental glaciers of Tibet, that feeds the Lyanchu River.
The spectacular emerald coloured lake of Yamdrok Tso. According to local mythology, Yamdrok Tso is the transformation of a goddess.Yamdrok is one of Tibet’s four holy lakes and its turquoise waters are shaped like a coiling scorpion, doubling back on themselves on the western side, effectively creating a large island within its reaches. The lake lies several hundred metres below the road at 4440m (14,560ft), and in clear weather is a fabulous shade of deep turquoise. We will see the lake from the 4795m (15,700ft) Khamba La as we drive en route between Gyantse and Lhasa.
Arriving in Lhasa we will spend one night before our flight to Kashgar for the final leg of the expedition.
China: Day 20
Today will effectively be a travel day as we fly from Lhasa to Kashgar, via either Chengdu or Xi’an. Depending on the timing of our flight, we may be able to take our first walking tour of the old town of Kashgar, or Kashi as it is locally known. Locked away in the westernmost corner of China, closer to Tehran and Damascus than to Beijing, Kashgar has been the epicentre of regional trade and cultural exchange for more than two millennia.
China: Day 21
Perched at the edge of the wild deserts of the Taklamakan, the Dawakun Desert is just a day tour away from the ancient capital of Kashgar. No visit to the Silk Road would be complete without visiting the desert, with its ancient lakes, multi-leaved forests and endless expanses of dunes. This will be our first chance to experience Tajik culture while doing a day of landscape and cultural photography in this beautiful desert region.
China: Day 22
This morning we will enjoy a half day excursion to the famous Shipton’s Arch, possibly one of the highest rock arches in the world. Though long familiar to locals (the south side of the arch is visible from the plain below) it was famously discovered in 1947 by English mountaineer Eric Shipton during his tenure as the British consul in Kashgar – and made known to the West in his book Mountains of Tartary. Shipton made several attempts to reach the arch from the south, but was defeated each time by a maze of steep canyons and cliffs, before his party finally found a route to the arch from the north and photographed it. Today you can drive to it from Kashgar and the hike to its base is only around an hour.
In the afternoon we will return to Kashgar where we will enjoy the rest of the day doing street photography and drinking tea in the old town.
China: Days 23-25
Today we will leave for Tashkurgan, close to the borders of Tajikistan, Afghanistan and Pakistan to explore the nomadic Tajik and Wakhi cultures of this rarely visited area. This beautiful drive will take us via the stunning turquoise waters of the Bulungkol White Sand Lake, which features a natural sand dune barrier separating them from the majestic mountains of the Palmir. It is in this region we will be exploring the ancient ruins of the Tashkurgan Stone Fort while exploring the area searching for nomadic people.
The Tajik and Wakhi people in this area are best known for their European features and their isolation from the outside world. Here we will be specifically photographing women in their beautiful red and silver traditional dress while we explore the bucolic way of life of these nomads at the junction of these fascinating countries.
China: Day 26
From Tashkurgan we will say a sad goodbye and return to Kashgar where this epic expedition will come to an end.

